Volunteering on Eigg

A volunteers account

When I was just a little girl.

.My dad (whose only living relative resides in Glasgow) would wax lyrical on his knowledge of the Scottish Highlands and Islands.I was the only one who'd listen to him. Mum sat in the corner with the occasional 'hmmph' as a response, (why did he go on about Scotland when there was sun to be had in Majorca?!)

I must have taken some of it in though, when at the grand old age of 21, had taken the train through the dismal flatlands of Norfolk, and decided I desperately needed to get away from it all. Now where were those Islands dad had talked of?

Thank heavens for the Internet. I soon discovered a wealth of information about the Inner Hebrides and became fascinated with these islands, with their strange names. Eigg soon caught my eye when I read about the buy-out in 1997 and, not really expecting a response, sent a letter to one of many contact names on the Isle of Eigg website, requesting volunteer work in exchange for lodgings for the week.

Sue emailed me back a few weeks later and told me that yes, I could indeed do some work on the island - but was told that the cottage I'd be staying in would not be luxurious and that the work would not be glamorous. I knew straightaway, this was going to be a totally new experience!

I booked the time off work and set about planning my route (what my Sales Manager would call a logistical nightmare). Going from Ipswich to Mallaig in one day involved travelling by coach, plane and train, which had to be a record for me.

I finally arrived the next day by ferry. Getting on the flit boat and approaching the island was incredibly exciting. I got off, surrounded by day-trippers doing an 'Island Hop' and set about finding Sue, or Ian, the Development Officer. The tearooms were buzzing and Ian spotted me a mile off, carrying a rucksack as big as me and looking ever so slightly lost.

First things first, I thought - Food. I went into the shop and bought a selection of really fresh fruit and veg and was quickly introduced to the laid-back feel that dominates island life. Firstly, I could put everything onto a tab to be paid off at the end of my stay. Secondly, the generators decided to wimp out for a while, and all the electricity went off. I had to wait until all was working again before I could have my veg weighed on the electric scales. Not a problem - I soon got chatting to people in the shop and was amazed to find that one of the ladies originated from Hemel Hempstead. The thought of that Hertfordshire town with its 'magic roundabout' system and commuter belt residents at that moment, seemed totally alien.

I was taken to Garden Cottage, which would be my home for a week. Yes, it was basic. Having hot water was dependent on my lighting a fire. Could I chop wood? You bet I could, by the end of my stay! The thing that initially got me was the non-existence of a fridge, but I soon got around that, buying two yoghurts and a pint of milk daily.

Now the hard bit - doing some work! Ian asked me to do some litter picking, which I actually quite enjoyed in the blazing sunshine. The rest of the week was spent unloading deliveries in the shop, and helping to put together the island's newsletter, which I really enjoyed. It was a good way of finding out about the issues that affect the people who live on Eigg.

Ian generously allowed me to spend a lot of time discovering the island, and briefed me on the best places to walk. Climbing the Sgurr was amazing, as were the panoramic views from the top over Rum and Muck. I was also lent a bike, and made use of it to get to the Singing Sands. This was probably the highlight of my stay. Sitting on the white sand with no-one else near, just mucking about with my camera and resting my slightly blistered feet..Wow.

And what of the evenings? At about 6pm every day, I headed back to Garden Cottage and cooked myself something substantial on the gas stove and got stuck into a trashy novel. I loved the way it stayed light so late into the evening - it was only May!

One evening, I was lucky enough to visit a house that had all Mod Cons, including a TV! However, by that point I wasn't that bothered about watching it, and since my return, I've not had a TV in my house.

I also enjoyed a meal in the tearooms one evening. I joined around fifteen burly men who were working on building a jetty at the harbour. On my final night, another volunteer who'd just started a month-long stay had joined me at the cottage. We'd planned to go and visit the caves, but were distracted by two guys in a 4X4 who invited us over to a gathering on the other side of the island. And what a time I had, with residents playing their accordions and pipes and with the Bloody Mary's flowing.

On leaving, Sue handed me a box of eggs she wanted dropping in at Sheena's Backpackers in Mallaig. Not a problem - although I didn't look inside and they may have arrived shaken and stirred after that ferry crossing!

Well, Eigg, you certainly lived up to, and surpassed, all my expectations. The people are fantastic - a diverse mix of all ages who know how to have a great time. The views and scenery - for a tiny island, there's loads to see. Perhaps the biggest shock, and the thing saddens me, is that I'd be next to useless living there. What use is an English degree? The kind of skills that get you through a cold, wet and tourist-free winter, financially and mentally, would be tougher than anything I've ever had to do.

I'd thoroughly recommend being a volunteer on the island. There's plenty of outdoor work to do, with restoration of the Lodge gardens and other buildings providing the bulk of the labour. It's taken me three months to getting round to writing this, which shows the extent to which my job soon took over once I'd returned home. I'd recommend staying for at least a month to experience Eigg life more fully -I can't see my boss letting me do that! Anyone lucky enough should grab the chance, but I can't say I won't be envious.

Garden Cottage - volunteer accomodation

We have opportunitities for volunteers to work in the Lodge Garden, general maintenance or office work in exchange for free lodgings in Garden Cottage and can usually offer a few hours a week paid work in either the shop or the tearoom.

Lodge and Garden

If you are interested in volunteering on Eigg then contact Norah floramarge@yahoo.com